Tuesday, December 28, 2004

this american blahg

The last time I came back to Chicago, the word "agoraphobia" kept running through my mind. Just look at these needlessly wide streets -- streets so wide that even with cars parked along both sides, two more cars could comfortably fit side by side in the middle of the street, and that in a purely residential area where two cars very rarely need to fit side by side in the middle of the street to begin with -- bounded by these almost comical sidewalks -- completely empty except, apparenty, for the occasional group of three and a half people who absolutely must walk abreast. It was the empty lots that really bothered me. My last apartment here overlooked half of an empty lot, and the lack of spatial definition was almost creepy. It turns out though that agoraphobia means both fear of open space and fear of crowds (among other things); clearly not a word invented by someone just coming back from Taiwan. What I have is a fear of the lack of crowds.

Aside from this general feeling that the world has come to an end and humanity has died off, which I have every time I come back to Chicago because of the lack of people on the street, I am also currently in a little bit of a communications and electronics crisis: my dsl cut out inexplicably yesterday afternoon, and the rest of my computer is having indigestion from a microsoft update I stupidly let it eat (it had icing mixed with poison that had turned a tempting green) and has spent the day lying in bed rubbing its belly. It's currently above freezing here, and I am reassimilated enough to feel like that's kind of comfortable. I'll try to find something that is happening out there and come back and report on it here, pretending that all the while this has not been an exoticising travelogue but just my little blahg about my little life. I'd appreciate it if you would join me in that pretense, at least during this transitional stage.

Thursday, December 23, 2004


bridge underbelly

bridge underbelly 2

a little sampling of The Neighborhood, and me with the train clock they gave me to remember them by.

me and vicky at the door to the shenghuo guan (life center).

(i'm not supposed to do this, but: this is zhang mama, with her granddaughter)

tai-ke joe took me out for pig feet the other day. dee lish.

flutter by: pre-departure social life: not a story

I lived through my lunchtime talk Wednesday, in case you’re wondering, although not coherently, rather in very abstract bits and pieces; there was some chatting afterwards and later that night a professor I know at the Sinica sent me a long critical commentary about my incoherence which I can’t make head or tail of. I can’t even make sense of the ways in which people can’t make sense of me. What am I doing in academia? Feeling a little like a monkey (the shit-throwing kind).

Then yesterday evening was a farewell dinner with bits and pieces of the Urban Development Department. The department head ripped a namecard off a little bag with a bottle of liquour that someone had given him and presented me with it along with a nice speech about how much I had helped the department and was always welcome back. In true Taiwanese fashion later that evening I took the bottle and presented it to Jennifer, with a little speech much to the same effect but backwards. The chief engineer, a sweet, quiet woman who was actually my very first contact in the department way back when gave me a crystal block with a 3D laser outline of the old city gates and walls which I feel like I ought to find tacky but which I actually think is really cool. Somehow the martial arts novels of Jin Yong came up—a contemporary writer so famous that even I have heard of him—and this morning when I went to the department for the last time to collect all the data on my computer there, my section head presented me with four volumes of Jin Yong, for me to read on the plane. Hospitality gone wild, this place.

The original plan last night was to go singing after the dinner, but everyone sagged out and I ended up walking home with My Former Object and the sixty-five year old deputy head of the department. I was so disappointed—why is it that it’s exactly when you don’t make plans that they end up coming through?—that I hopped down to Jennifer’s later in the evening for a little chat, which turned into a big chat, which turned into a phone call from a couple of friends at a dance club nearby, which turned into a little dance outing. I think the last time I’ve been out so late so regularly was freshman year of college, and that was not dancing, that was eating four a.m. eggs in the diner below my dorm.

This afternoon was a lovely lunch followed by a lovely coffee with the girl known here as Alex and two people I’m too tired to make up pseudonyms for and besides you’re going to see all their pictures in a second anyway—Most Beloved Tony (I’m not sure how this name came about, but it’s what I call him; he calls me Most Beloved Anya or Taiwanya; anyway he is most beloved) and SF, who first got me into Chinese language msn chatting. Alex is the one who was organizing the documentary film festival into which I for some reason sank my life last week. We stopped by the office so I could pick up my pay for the work I’d done for them—it turns out I was being paid, around $650 US. I’m thinking maybe I’ll put it toward a little video camera that I’d eventually like to get. As you can see, between the blahg and the pictures and the video camera desire, I’m on a little bit of a documentation kick. I also finally got to watch Alex’s short documentary, which showed pieces of eight or nine of the twelve first dates she went on last year when she went to the US. She found the people through an online dating site. I have a particular feeling for this little film because it's through one of the people she met on the site that I know her.

And now, well, if you can believe it, I am post-nap, pre-outing and, as you can tell, am just writing this to say hello. Especially to you people in Massachusetts. I can’t say that I wish I were there, exactly; it’s more that I wish you were here.


city government window view

alex

Most Beloved Tony

gossip

this picture demonstrates my lack of vanity -- Most Beloved Tony captured the sweetness of SF so nicely that I am including it here despite the fact that I look like a doof

Tuesday, December 21, 2004

why am i going back again?

I'd just like to mention, now that Chicago has slipped into below-zero wind chill factors, that a bunch of my friends here are going out on 26th, the day after I land in Chicago, to go strawberry picking. I don't mean anything by that statement. It's just something that happens to be happening. I just thought I'd mention it, is all. Strawberry picking. Yup.

Monday, December 20, 2004

well my bags are packed

But I’m not ready to go. The guy with the truck came and took away my boxes (10 in all, the packing list reads: books; clothes; books; clothes; books; clothes; teapot) this morning and a little while later the guy in the suit came and took the papers about them. The lack of documentation on my end is a little bit discomfiting (everything is supposed to be sent to me later, over email) but I know people who’ve gone with this guy in the suit before and so I still expect to see my stuff sometime around the end of January. All three or four items of warm clothing are in my travel backpack. They will surely not be enough to keep me comfortable until whenever I get to my storage space and dig out my winter jacket. There’s something nice about coming back from Taipei to Chicago in the winter, I think, I like it when the physical world mirrors the emotional. I’m alone in the apartment and am wandering around, brewing a second cup of coffee and singing Leaving on a Jet Plane at the top of my voice (the Peter Paul and Mary version, which is the one I had on tape, from a mix someone made me in high school, although of course the first way I heard it was the famous David Kramer in-the-car version of which, as far as I know, there are, alas, no recordings). The way I prefer to leave is to make myself so exhausted through busywork and goodbye-saying that I am on the one hand effortlessly emotional (everything is heightened when I’m tired) but on the other hand too spent to really take anything in (a little bit of twisted self-protection). This time though I have this unfortunate interlude in which I must be cogent: tomorrow lunchtime I am due to present myself to the Ethnology Institute at Academia Sinica and talk about my research for forty-five minutes, and then live through another half hour or so of discussion. If you have any ideas about what I should say, please let me know. I certainly don’t.

In a life-level kind of way, I think I am gradually becoming reconciled to the fact that wherever I am there will always be somewhere else I want to be at the same time (that's not how the phrase goes, I know). I had this little realization at some point that if I were not busy being sad about leaving Taipei to go back to Chicago, I’d probably be busy being sad about not leaving Taipei to go back to Chicago. And not really so busy—it’s just a small undercurrent of melancholic realistic longing. Even now, I really am looking forward to getting back, to having a good library and decent lighting and toilets you can flush toilet paper into and cheap salad provisions and nice architecture and…well, there must be some other good things about Chicago, I’m sure I’ll think of some later. But this reconciliation is much stronger in the in-between times when I’m not actually leaving somewhere but only realizing that I will soon. Right now the undercurrent is swelling up into the sort of leitmotif that can be said to swell, and I start choking up talking to the nice doorman, or last night in The Neighborhood saying goodbye to people and finally being able to make the little speech for the camera that they have been wanting me to make for two years, about how much I love them and miss them and how I won’t forget and will come back. Someone handed me a tissue as a joke, but it turned out there was actually something to mop up with it.

Well, my apologies, this is not a funny story. Maybe there will a funny story tomorrow, depending on how badly I screw up the lunch talk at Sinica. Check back and see. Also tomorrow I am having dinner with the city government people to say goodbye. Last year this event was a delicious lunch with my main section; this year it's a dinner to which the department head, deputy head, chief engineer, and several other high-level people are coming, so although it may not be funny it will certainly be excruciating.

and now i'll do an interpretive dance on this topic


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Thursday, December 16, 2004


yesterday, the first little going-away gathering (at my favorite sichuanese place, kiki's). the three people who are not rivi or me are friends who used to work at the department of urban development. they even gave me a little picture frame as a going away present, so I will have somewhere to put our picture.

excitement unwanted and not

Hmm. Another earthquake. It seems appropriate, though not exactly seasonal. Just a little bump really.

Yesterday morning as I was getting ready to go interpret for some directors across town, I heard something crashing upstairs. I thought my Brazilian roommate, BR, must have dropped something, but when he didn’t respond to my “Everything okay?” I went up the stairs to see what had fallen. Our Taiwanese roommate, TR, had moved out a while ago. Well, moved out is maybe an overstatement. From how I understand the situation, and I actually am not interested in understanding it too well, at some point after the girl who lived here before me, who apparently was having an affair with TR, abruptly moved out, TR stopped paying rent to BR, and then became highly inaccessible—all of us are hardly around anyway and rarely run into each other, and all the contact information BR had for TR was his cell phone number—then completely disappeared for a while. Eventually he returned to start moving his stuff out but somehow never got around to getting all of it, always putting it off and promising also to pay off BR various other moneys he owes him. BR was getting more and more tense about the situation, tried to get his Taiwanese friends to negotiate with TR (who wouldn’t talk to them), and kept talking about getting the police, or just throwing the guy’s stuff out, or something. The net result up to yesterday was that after the guy had disappeared and neither paid his outstanding debts nor collected his belongings for a couple of weeks, BR found the key to a front door lock we hadn’t been using (there are, in very Taiwanese style, two front doors with three locks each) and decided to lock him out until he would negotiate.

So yesterday morning as I was getting ready to go out I heard something crashing upstairs, and walked up to see TR using a brick to smash in the upstairs glass door. I yelled at him to, I believe my words were, “Get the fuck out of here,” bilingually, for ease of understanding and as befitting someone who was about to go out interpreting for people, although I don’t know how to get “fuck” in there grammatically in Chinese, so it wasn’t as good an interpretation as it could have been. I think the message was successfully conveyed, but to little effect: all he did was look up at me with, if you can say this, a purposeful absence of expression, look down, and keep smashing the glass. My reaction was one hundred percent woman: I gave a yelp and started running downstairs. I happened to have my cell phone in my hand because I had just been sending a text message, and as I ran I tried to dial what I think is the number for the police, but it didn’t work—I don’t know if I dialed wrong or if the connection cut out in the stairs or what. I reached the first floor and started yelling to the doorman (yes, we have doormen. It’s not my fault. There are three of them on rotation and two of them are really nasty, if that makes it any better. Yesterday the nice one was on duty though). Still one hundred percent woman: my hands were shaking, I couldn’t control my voice, and my Chinese went all to hell. TR came down in the elevator to try to explain the situation from his point of view, which is that BR had actually been exploiting him, and to reassure me that it was not about me and he wouldn’t do anything to me, or something like that. I was not in such a sympathetic mood for some reason, though I was almost as upset about my own reaction as I was about the break-in. I mean, what if it had been about me? Loss of control is probably not such an effective way to deal with such a situation.

I’d called BR but his phone was out of order. The three of us went back up to see the damage; the glass was broken enough that you could get in to the apartment. This door faces out onto the verandah formed by the roof of the building below it (BR’s room is a roof-box); TR showed me another, metal, door in between the mouth of the stairs and the verandah. We walked into BR’s room through the smashed glass, TR still telling me that “It’s not a big deal, look, this is just a little broken thing, he’ll pay me back for it, I mean, I’ll pay him back for it” which seemed to be exactly the confusion at the root of the matter, and “it has nothing to do with you, he treated me so badly I can’t even say.” When he moved further into the room to go down the stairs I grabbed onto his shirt, pulled, and said, “You can’t go into the apartment.” One of the things that goes all to hell when I’m flipped out, apparently, is my directional verbs: I was standing in the apartment. It should have been “come into the apartment.” Obviously he could have broken free, but with the old doorman standing there (who despite the broken glass still seemed uncertain about the situation and was saying like a grandfather to a mischievous child, “You really shouldn’t do this”) it probably seemed like a bad idea. I sent them down the outside stairs, locked the outside door he’d shown me, and went down the front door to talk.

TR was sitting on a cabinet saying, “I need my medicine, there’s medicine in my room that I need.” Seeing as how he’d been gone for almost a month at least, I found this somewhat unlikely, but the doorman urged me to be compassionate. He wanted to go in himself, but I told him to tell me where it was and I’d get it for him. “It’s at the very very bottom of one of the big cardboard boxes,” he said. A question to the reader: do you put your medicine at the very very bottom of big cardboard boxes? I didn’t think so. Neither do I. But for some reason all I could think of was to go to his room and flip over the two big cardboard boxes full of his stuff, at the bottom of which there was, of course, no medicine. At this point I had a little over half an hour to get to somewhere that had been known to be almost half an hour away by taxi, and I couldn’t really think of what to do anyway. I guess I should have called the police at least to have a record, and to get his identity card information. Maybe. I don’t know what I should have done. I really didn’t want anything to do with it—I was wishing he’d chosen a better time and just gotten his stuff without flipping me out. I was also a little worried that now that I was clearly not being helpful, the next time he came and I wasn’t around he would, you know, give me a computer virus or erase my hard drive or something. I don’t know what I was worried about, is what I mean, I was worried in some vague way about my computer, site of everything precious, and my inability to calm down, and not so much about getting raped or something as about going around being nervous about getting raped. My mouth was sour and my stomach was acid.

I told TR to work it out with BR, thanked the doorman, closed the door, realized that I was too flipped out to take a shower (I just watched Psycho recently), made myself somewhat presentable, and left, looking both ways down the alley as I stepped out the door. It took me until the middle of the third film, I don’t know how many hours later, to feel more or less deflipped; and for the rest of the day I felt tired and on edge. Although the interpreting sessions went fine. Someone even came up to me after the Taiwanese-American-defender-of-Taiwan-who-doesn’t-speak-Chinese session and said, “Your Chinese versions of his answers made more sense than his answers did!” Which is probably not so good—surely the job of a good interpreter is to convey the person’s actual level of coherence—but it’s true that I am developing just a little bit of a face issue on the topic of interpreting, becoming somewhat resistant to translating incoherence into incoherence lest people mistake what has been retained in translation for what has been lost. After that session, it was time for Agnes Varda’s lecture. I am totally uneducated and so know nothing about her except that she is very famous and that she is here in Taiwan for this event, but I figured sitting still for another hour or two wouldn’t hurt. It didn’t hurt, and I found out that her uncle was friends with Henry Miller, which, you know, when you hear Henry Miller your day just gets better.

And following the lecture there was a little festival party which culminated in almost twenty of us, including a bunch of the foreign directors, some of the guides in charge of foreign directors, and me somehow stumbling over to a karaoke place (what’s known as a KTV) and renting a room and having what I must honestly say was the most fun I’ve ever had singing -- not in terms of the fun but in terms of the singing -- even though the Wu Bai song I wanted to sing never came up (Wu Bai is the Bruce Springsteen of Taiwan). I don’t know exactly what it was about the singing, whether it was the fact that everyone there either was or was acting more drunk that I was, that I had been carrying the weird stress of shock the whole day and needed to find somewhere to put it down, or that the weird stress of shock had shot my appetite and I was drinking vodka on more or less an empty stomach, but I have never sung with such abandon before. Now, of course, I want to go to KTV every night. It's completely addictive. Over the course of the evening not one, not two, but three of the directors invited me back to their hotel rooms, which, as market analysts will note, marks a roughly 300% jump in propositions in the waning days of the fiscal year. All three were Spanish-speakers, one from Mexico and two from Spain; so I guess I’ve found my target audience.

When I got home a bit after three (having been the one to make sure that the bill was settled properly and everyone who didn’t speak the language knew how to get where they needed to go—why? since when am I the responsible one? what a dumb role), I saw that the stuff I’d dumped out of TR’s boxes, and the boxes themselves, were gone. I figured that BR had heard what had happened and got rid of them, but this morning it turns that all that BR knew was that his door was broken and TR’s stuff was gone. Probably the second door on the verandah was breakable or jumpable. I haven’t been up to check. I feel a lot less nervous now that the guy’s stuff is out of here; I do think all he wanted was to get his stuff without having to pay BR the money he owes him. It’s all one more nail in the coffin of being pretty happy to be going back to the States for a change. But I do think it’s pretty funny that this happens here, in my high class building with doormen in a very expensive, very safe area, while when I lived in the poor, dangerous area, all my neighbors knew exactly who was coming and going in the building and would tell me if I’d missed something important. The only problem I ever had with apartment entry there was when I accidentally locked my own keys in the bucket under my scooter seat and a kid from the gas station down the street took off from work at a clip to pry it open for me.

Monday, December 13, 2004

more dumb movie reviews

Yesterday I dropped by the documentary film festival outpost office in a hotel near the theater to drop something off. “Oh thanks, yes, that’s great,” the girl said, “and, um, we were wondering if you’d like to translate for some of our directors, for the Q & A sessions. We’ve heard that one of the guys we had translating is not very good and we need to replace him.” I’d actually been mouthing translations for director commentary at the films that I’d seen (what is known here as an “occupational disease 職業病 zhiye bing,” when your occupation becomes an illness that intrudes upon the living of your life, e.g. Chinese teachers who can’t stop correcting people’s Chinese—I find that many of my friends have occuapational diseases), so I looked down the list she had and agreed to do a few on Wednesday and Thursday. Last night, the mosquitoes that have been disturbing my sleep for a while now turned into film directors; I did my best to translate for them while smacking them to death. This morning I woke up with my heart racing, thinking, “How the hell am I going to get everything done within a week and a half?” I looked at my calendar and, sure enough, it said, “Start freaking out about leaving today.” Right on schedule.

So what have I been doing to mitigate the freak out? Well, I’ve been watching movies at the documentary film festival. Yesterday they showed five of the six or seven works of Artavaszd Pelechian (Пелешян) that are out there to be shown. That’s an Armenian director I’ve never heard of who the German filmmaker, commentator, and festival judge I talked to at the opening says is the best thing since bratwurst. The German guy, whose English is completely fine but cadenced like someone who is just learning to use a stick shift, gave a little introduction at the screening which the translator completely fumbled (I wonder if this is the boy I’ll be replacing), explaining that although normal people like me have no idea who this Pelechian guy is, smart people like Godard and Coppola think he’s the best thing since bratwurst. I thought the films were pretty cool (especially one about farmers that showed lots of scenes of sheep in various stages of being herded, led, and carried by horse across a river, and one about various aircraft exploding) but I think I still need someone to explain to me why he’s so completely amazing. I’ll try to find the German guy again and ask him. In the meantime the thing I liked most aside from the sheep and explosions was that someone on the production crew had a last name of something like Mbrktian (Мбрктян). One must have a mouth of rubber to regard this name and not to think of a tongue tied in bows, plastic refrigerator letters in a heap, making a Cyrillic that is not there from the Cyrillic that it. [Hey, Garlic Bud, you out there? This entire paragraph is a big fat hint to give a little lecture on Pelechian and on Armenian names. In case you hadn’t noticed.]

I’ve seen one film so far that kind of raised my ire. The director is a young Taiwanese-American guy, and the movie is about Taiwan. He does things like film a lot of white-man and Taiwanese-woman couples and say things like, “Look at this fat guy. How did he ever end up with her? Is it just about power?” Or go into Taipei 101 and say, “What do you see when you walk in here? A huge mall. You can come all the way to Asia to go to the tallest building in the world, and you walk right into America.” If you’ve been reading this little thing, my “thesis” (as Tai-ke Joe calls it), for a little while, like since October, you probably know that I have some thoughts on topics such as white men and Taiwanese women (and on gender/national relations in Taiwan in general), and on Taipei 101 (and the fact that it and the whole area around it were specifically planned to look like America)--see e.g. Blahgstein 2004a, 2004b, and 2004c. So my reaction to this film may once again be part of my occupational disease. But the way this guy sits on one side on his own identity as Asian to criticize white people, and then changes buttocks to sit on his own identity as American to criticize Taiwanese, and the way both of these critques seem to be based in observations gained from walking around with a camera while having a cold rather than, say, talking to people or doing a little research, aroused a tad of antipathy in me—a tad of antipathy meaning I was watching the movie thinking, “You self-pitying little shit.” When I left the theater, my friend Tony, who I’d run into there, started chatting to the director’s girlfriend, who’s a Taiwanese filmmaker and performance artist he’s known for a long time. The director was standing next to her having a beer. Someone came up to him and started discussing the film, and actually said some nice things about it, and relatively detailed nice things at that, and he responded, “This is about the third beer I’ve had, so I probably won’t remember anything you said.” And I thought, “You self-pitying, self-enamored little shit.”

Anyway, it turns out that this guy who is all upset about white guys dating Taiwanese girls and who voice-overs commentaries like, “Look at this guy, he’s trying to fit it—he’s got the Taiwanese haircut, the clothes. He doesn’t stand out at all,” while panning in on a tall blond guy having an animated conversation with a Taiwanese woman, this Taiwanese-American director defending Taiwan from the Americans, does not speak Chinese. When I saw his name on the list of people still in need of a translator, I told the organizers I didn’t want to do it, because I was so annoyed by the movie. But then the slapstick aspect of “and then this white girl comes out and starts translating” for this particular movie got the better of me, and after giggling a bit with the organizers, I put down my name for that session.

Saturday, December 11, 2004

not at my sharpest this morning, apologies

So yesterday was the opening ceremony for the Taiwan International Documentary Festival. I cobbled together an outfit that looked somewhat decent, or at least looked like I’d made an effort, and headed out around noon. The girl doing the actual mc’ing, another friend of another organizer, who had about as much experience in hosting as I, was so nervous that she was a little bit surly. I tried reminding her that even if we completely screwed up nobody would remember it the next day. You’d think that recognizing your own insignificance would ameliorate the terror of being the object of attention, but it didn’t seem to work. She had more reason to be nervous than I, since she had to say things first. I had a script to go from but if I forgot it, I could always just do an on-the-fly translation. I was more okay than I thought I would be, though I discovered, when taking someone’s card at the afterparty, that I couldn’t stop my hands from shaking. Ever so slightly. It might have just been hunger, though.

There were maybe a hundred to a hundred fifty people in the audience, with special guests the director of the Chinese Taipei Film Archives, which is the organizing agency this year, and the Minister of the Council for Cultural Affairs, which is the sponsoring government agency. I did on the fly interpretation for them, and discovered once again that translating stuff with content is much easier than translating politeness. How many ways are there to say, “Welcome, we’re happy to have you here, we hope that this will be a fruitful international exchange, and please make more movies”? Apparently there are at least twenty minutes’ worth of ways of saying that. The Minister of the Council for Cultural Affairs, Chen Qinan, who has a degree in anthropology from Yale (1984), is also the architect of a lot of the community planning programs that are now national and local level government policy. The woman in charge of his movements—I don’t know if she’s a secretary or what—gave me a big sheaf of papers[1] about five minutes before the ceremony started, saying, “Minister Chen may use some special terms in his talk; why don’t you look this over so you can get a sense of the kind of terminology he may be using and how we usually translate it.” It had a couple of brief essays in Chinese with English translation, and a talk that “is actually the President’s speech but Minister Chen may use some of the same terms.”

I was called over to his side before the ceremony started, and was quite proud of how quickly and thoroughly I slipped into bowing and scraping mode. I’ve been working on refining my outrageously subservient politeness posture and expanding the range of my obedience vocabulary—small things like saying “yes” instead of “right” or “good;” never using the second person as a form of address but always the title; and certain respectful-girl physical habits like the slight bend in the shoulders that pulls the neck down toward the torso; holding up the right hand next to the neck and lightly pinching the skin under the chin with the index and middle fingers; and making as though to pat down the hair on the back-right side of the head when asking a question or expressing doubt (always phrased as a failure to understand), make a noticeable difference in people’s reactions to me. Minister Chen assured me that he would not use any of the terminology that his handler has just printed out for me, but that we would go along sentence by sentence and he’d try to keep it simple. The speeches that Minister Chen’s handler had given me laid out his idea of “cultural citizenship,” which as far as I can tell is yet another version of wanting the state to establish a vibrant civil society. Honestly, I don’t know what they teach them at Yale.

This ceremony was different from most ceremonies in that it was not utterly boring from start to finish. The amount of boringness overall was no different from that of any opening ceremony, but to break up the boredom they had decided to screen some films. We saw the world premiere of Naomi Kawase’s tear-jerky Shadow. Beautifully done, lovely plumage, but kind of a cheap shot—a woman is told by a man who is inexplicably filming her that he is actually her real father; we see her absorbing this fact on screen, with lots of crying, and finally coming to terms with it, the terms being a scarf she makes “for father.” She’s a very attractive woman, which makes the film nice to look at but a little bit…well, sure, how can you not sympathize with a beautiful woman who has her world disrupted on camera? The part I liked was that you couldn’t figure out how many cameras were there: there were shots from the camera held by the man who reveals himself as the father, shots from a camera filming him and the woman, and then, you realize only toward the end, shots from another camera, which occasionally catches the cameraman shooting camera number two. I thought it was pretty cool. A member of the competition jury (Andrei Uljike, I guess a film critic, who for some reason came up and started chatting to me and my mc after the ceremony was over) responded to this with, “Well, yes, perhaps ten years ago it was new.” So, good thing I’ve barely watched any movies in the last ten years, because I can still enjoy this.

The next film they showed was Amos Gitai’s [2] House, a 1978-1980 documentary censored for Israeli TV in which he talks to various people connected a house that is being rebuilt—the Arab owner who was there until 1948, the Algerian Jewish resident who had it for a while after that, the Israeli professor who is now expanding and reconstructing it, the Arab workmen doing the work, and the Israeli construction company owner and his son, the foreman. I thought it was pretty cool, not half as tear-jerky as it could have been, with a surprisingly light touch. I got agreement from Mr. Uljike but the British reporter for Variety at the afterparty complained about boring it was, unedited, long, black and white, before asking if I wanted to get a drink.

The final movie was Herzog’s new documentary, The White Diamond, which was universally adored. It’s like the comedy-documentary version of Fitzgeraldo, moving in some very strange way—moving like some parts of you are being moved that you’d never isolated as movable parts. But I was kind of disappointed that Herzog seems to have shaved his moustache.

People at the afterparty kept coming up to me and saying how good my English sounded. The director of one of the documentaries that will be shown at the festival—a Taiwanese guy who made a movie about Taiwanese rice growers—handed me a dvd of his film. “Why?” I asked. “Because your English sounds so good,” he said, and ran away. A couple who has a small world music label guessed that I was raised in the Northeast because “your English doesn’t sound like most Americans’, it sounds so good.” Random women in the bathroom cooed “Oh your English sounds soo goood.” And finally the guy from Variety, an English speaker himself, came up to tell me how good I’d sounded. I find this a little bit puzzling but, hey, I just live this stuff, I don’t have to understand it. Maybe I should write a thank-you note to Mr. Reese, my high school theater director, who forced me to pronounce the “g” at the end of “ing” words.

The other girl, the actual mc, continued her mild, aggravated freaking out throughout the entire event, insisting afterwards that she hated doing this and never wanted to do it again and was going to refuse to do the closing ceremony on Friday. What closing ceremony on Friday? I asked. Are we supposed to do that too? Oh, she said, they didn’t tell you? Next Friday’s special guest will be the President of the Republic of China, Chen Shuibian, for whom it now appears that I will be interpreting. I’m a little intimidated by this prospect, of course, but as usual the comedic potential outweighs my reservations. My main worry, as usual, is what the hell to wear.

By next Friday, President Chen might or might not be over the bad mood he must be in today. Taiwanese party politics groups people in a couple of different ways: there are about five or so main parties, two of which are really main-main parties, and then there are two opposed alliances of the parties, the Blue camp (with the KMT, the People’s First Party, and the New Party) and the Green camp (with the DPP and the Taiwan Solidarity Union). (There is actually also a Green Party, as in an environmentalist party, but it is very small and does not, as far as I know, belong to either of these camps.) The main difference between them is that the Blue camp wants political power for the Blue camp, and the Green camp wants political power for the Green camp. Other differences include: the Greens have a rhetoric of independence and the Blues have a rhetoric of unification (from/with mainland China); the Greens want to introduce a new constitution to replace the one that was written for the Republic of China when the KMT still nominally held the mainland, and the Blues don’t (this is read as being just another way of saying independence and unification, of course); the Greens used to be concerned with economic equality and environmental protection, and the Blues used to be into dictatorship (neither of these seems to be the case any longer).

Anyway, with the lowest voter turnout in Taiwanse history, the Blues won the majority in the legislative elections yesterday and Chen Shuibian made a point of conceding right away. Since the last presidential election in March, which is still technically unfinished insofar as the Blue camp has not yet conceded defeat, people have become very sensitive about concessions. (Several people have spoken to me with admiration about Kerry’s quick concession in the US election in November, saying more or less, “What a man!” and giving a thumbs-up.) I just hope President Chen does not stray too far from the draft speech that arrived in my inbox at 4 o’clock this morning; I find his Mandarin a little difficult to understand and his cadences are really weird. It’s one thing to stumble a little in trying to translate something correctly; it’s altogether more facelosing to actually not understand what the guy is saying.


[1] is it sheaf of papers or sheaf of paper? David?

[2] (the official gitai site was inaccessible this morning)

Thursday, December 09, 2004

pre-election message from a radio commentator

"The legislative elections are tomorrow. So remember: if there is a candidate you really like, you have an ideal candidate, by all means go and vote for him. But if you don’t have a candidate you really like, remember, you don’t have to vote. You know who has the highest voting rate? Dictatorships. When Iraq held elections under Sadam Hussein, they had a 99.7% voting rate. It’s laughable. Don’t let anyone tell you that if you don’t vote, you are doing a disservice to the country or you don’t care about public affairs. There are a lot of ways to express the fact that you care about public affairs. You don’t have to vote. That’s what happens in a democracy: people feel comfortable enough to participate in a wide variety of activities, and it doesn’t have to be elections. So if you don’t vote tomorrow, don’t feel like you owe something to someone, don’t feel like you have failed your country in some way.” The commentator then went on to criticize both parties, the KMT for their past dictatorship and the DPP for their current inability to accept internal opposition. And then it was time for the English school commercials.

self-presentation to self via others, part 4

[When we left our heroes, they were sitting at a table... “Yes,” said Mr. Friedmann, facing me of all people, “I understand that. But what I want to know is what do they want, what do they want for their neighborhood? You can’t just always be opposing things. You have to have some idea of what you’d like to see.” ...]


Vivian took up the question and handed it out to the group. Like many educated people here, her ability to understand English far outstrips her ability to speak it. I always feel a little embarrassed by this, for some reason, a little superfluous, as I do when I suddenly can’t think of how to translate some word, in either direction, and people pipe up to tell me. When interpreting live, I have that scene from Bananas always before me. Anyway, here are the answers that people called out:

1. a park公園
2. reuse of heritage buildings 古蹟再利用
3. recover the honor and wealth of the past
恢復以前的榮副
4. liveliness
, life-power 活力
5. everyone knows one another 大家都認識
6. sugar refinery culture passed on to our children and grandchildren

A park The current thing that looks quite like a park is actually not a park but land designated for use as a park that is temporarily being used as a park. This has been the situation for tha last five years or so as the city government, having agreed to procure the land and turn it into a neighborhood park, has wrangled with the Taiwan Sugar Corporation. Taisugar, which is technically kind-of nationalized (yes, that’s a technical term) and whose chairman is appointed by the president, does still produce sugar, but its main profit comes from land. The company, formed in Shanghai in anticipation of retrocession in the mid-1940s, inherited the land that had belonged to the Japanese sugar corporations under colonial rule, much of which was seized during the big land survey that determined that there was about 10 times more cleared land on the island than had been declared for tax purposes under Qing dynasty rule. Taisugar has experimented with other profit-making ventures like pig raising, but its main profits now come from real estate.


As a less than only kind-of nationalized corporation, Taisugar had run a variety of extension programs to make up to sugar farmers for the fact that growing cane is not, actually, very profitable: they had insurance and loans and scholarships and schools and fertilizer and irrigation and god knows what all. People seem sometimes still to think of it as a kind of public service enterprise—in a discussion about what to do with the old buildings recently, someone said, “Give them over to Taisugar to run as a sugarcane museum or something, whatever, they can figure out what to do with them and we’ll help.” The city government person presiding over the meeting took the chance to delicately explain that Taisugar has become increasingly privatized, and now has obligations to its shareholders, and has to worry about making a profit, and so is not very likely to have much interest in a predictably unprofitable venture like a museum. “I think it’s important for us to recognize that Taisugar has changed in this way.”

Funnily enough, there are several chunks of neighborhood land that don’t look like parks but are parks: each of the three temples in the five-minute or so walking circumference of what I think of as The Neighborhood sits on what is, on my city government zoning maps, park land. But I think I’ve mentioned this before.

Reuse of heritage buildings is a term in city planning and preservation.

Recover the honor and wealth of the past is a pretty unlikely proposal. The clothing produced and sold wholesale in this area (a little in The Neighborhood itself and more and more as you head east along its main street) used to clothe people all over Taiwan: it was a major island center. But as the city expanded to the east, the center of gravity for the wholesale clothing business went there as well, and this area went into steep economic decline.

Liveliness is not a very precise term, but I think it’s pretty accurate. The Neighborhood is teeming with life, people are always organizing trips or events or dinners in the park; the publicly acknowledged sitting-around places like the corner where Mrs. Z waits for cars to wash and the little breakfast stand across from her, and Mr. and Mrs. L’s rice shop, and the neighborhood head’s office, have a flow of tea and people that varies in size and intensity but never dries up; there are always people sitting around in or near the temples smoking and chewing betel nut and talking and watching the world go by; the lady who spreads information for the neighborhood head is always hitting the screechy breaks of her bicycle to convey something to someone; and underneath all this interaction there is the constant grind of industry, the motor scooter mechanic’s wife sewing her piecework in the back room, people stacking up bags of shirts to take to market; and of course people eating and cooking at the fried egg and sandwich breakfast stands, help-yourself buffet lunch stands, fried rice and shrimp geng dinner stands, snacky scallion pancake and everything fry stands. I mean, it’s a pretty lively place.

Everyone knows one another is probably why the place feels so lively, right?

Sugar refinery culture As you can probably predict, this culture has almost no content aside from things like “there was a sugar refinery here;” and “they used to have cows to pull the sugarcane, they’d come through like this;” and “the coolies, they’d put a strap over one shoulder and they’d pulllll;” and “this land used to be all sugarcane fields, you know;” and such similar facts that people continuously repeat to me, to other outsiders, and to one another, the continuous repetition creating a din that is in some ways similar to content, but not so firmly packed.

The Professor broke in to explain that the visit to Professor Hsia was a turning point in the residents’ approach: they started talking about specific things they wanted, which were missing from the neighborhood. They became aware that the poor state of its public facilities and its minimal green space were things that could be rectified. “That was a moment when we went from protest to demand.”

Mr. Friedmann asked what “liveliness, number 4 above, meant. The Professor and Vivian both smiled. I posed the question to the group and got the following responses:

1. life/fate 生命
2. lots of people 很多人
3. activities 活動
4. green space
綠地
5. particularities (that is, special characteristics of this place) 特色
6. knowledge, education, exchange 知識, 學習, 交流
7. improvement of the quality of living space 生活空間品質提高
8. having a place to go where people don’t feel pressured or closed in, unlike at home (the pressure referred to is somewhere between emotion and physical layout, I think); a place that is open to everyone 沒有壓迫感開放空間

Can you determine the category of which these are members?

no one is safe: publicization of a private comment about the scooter

A gentle reader writes:

If this was in Russia, I'd say the mechanic who low-balled your scooter just wanted a bribe in return for the permit (hence, perhaps, the low-balling). But can't you just give the scooter to your friend as a gift, just leave it for her? And then she could return the favor by giving you a gift of however much she agreed to pay for it. (If she needs a new registration for it, I recommend going to a different mechanic -- but no longer with a financial transaction, just as a formality.) The two of you would be making a fruitful contribution to what in Russia is called the "tenevaya ekonomika [shadow economy]."


Gentle Reader,

The mechanic who low-balled my scooter is a long-term neighbor of the person buying the scooter, and serves her entire family’s scooter needs, as well as the scooter needs of many other neighbors in this neighborhood where a lot of people know one another. This is probably why he low-balled my scooter, if it is indeed a low-ball—he doesn’t need me on his side. But it would do no good for him at all to be known as a guy who has to be bribed to do something other people do for free: Taipei does not lack for motor scooter mechanics. Giving the scooter as a gift does not solve the problem, which is not actually a problem of selling but of entitlement—the “formality” is the thing that we are having trouble formalizing.

The scooter is still titled to me but I no longer have the right to transfer the title, which, to me, is what’s funny. If the scooter does enter the informal economy (and I’ll know in about an hour whether or not it will), it will be as a piece of property titled to someone who cannot be held responsible for it, but untitleable to anyone who would be wiling to be held responsible for it. The only thing to be worried about, in this case, would be something happening with the scooter that would potentially influence my visa status next time I want to get in to the country; although given that the people who issue residence permits don't know that residence permits are required to buy or sell motor vehicles, somehow I doubt that the various branches are that well integrated.

Okay, off to see how informally we can formalize the formalities.

UPDATE: The Mama and I went to the DMV, filled out the form, and went upstairs to where the title transfers are done. We explained our situation to the two nice boys at the information desk. One of them looked grave and said, "Oh, that is a big hassle." He stepped out from behind the desk and went to look for someone with the authority and knowledge to deal with this hassle. The Mama said, "We were told to talk to Mr. Lai." Yeah, the boy said, but Mr. Lai is not here right now, and neither is anyone else who I know would be able to deal with this problem. Listen, why don't you just take a ticket, wait your turn, and explain your situation to whoever you get; maybe they'll be able to help you. Otherwise you should wait for Mr. Lai.

We took a ticket and waited our turn, and explained our situation again to the man behind the desk. Every time I explain this situation I get a little better at it, a little briefer. Oh, he said, looking very puzzled. This is really a big hassle. I don't know what to do. He looked over at his neighbor, who was at the desk for handicapped licenses, and explained the situation to him much more efficiently than I had originally put it. "Just use her passport number," the neighbor answered. "You have a passport, right? But no residence permit anymore? But a visa? Okay, just use your passport number. Here, I'll do it for you, come over to this desk."

It turns out it's a perfectly rational system, as long as you happen to bump into the right person.


(Incidentally the process of title transfer involves only the title, not the sale: we were not asked how much the scooter was being sold for, nor any other information about it except its license plate number. So I think my comment above, that the problem is (was) not the sale but the entitlement, is right.)

kafka with a human touch

Christ, I’m exhausted today. A kind of unfortunate outing yesterday evening combined with a few extremely unfortunate mosquitoes at night (wah. I want a frog.) combined with this strange get up and go morning vibe I’ve had the last few days that makes it impossible to sleep in. Before me right now is a little carton of goose meat that even I find a little too fatty (though delicious) and one of my favorite foods of all time, lurou fan, white rice topped by a scoop of an oily concoction of chopped up stewed meat.

Yesterday I failed to sell my motor scooter for a ridiculously low price to one of my favorite The Neighborhood Mama’s, by name of H.[1] The ridiculously low price was suggested by the local mechanic, and I’m cool with it. When I spend money I tend to consider it no longer existing in any form, so the idea that I can get any money at all for an object that is not, itself, money is always a little thrilling. When you sell a motor vehicle, you need to do a certain amount of paperwork; usually a motor scooter repair place will do it for you. All they need is the vehicle paperwork and the i.d. cards of the buyer and seller. We gave the guy with the ridiculously low appraisal the paperwork, my friend’s i.d. card, and my passport, and he reported back: No go. You need your residence visa. And it has to be valid. You can’t just use the residence visa you used when you bought the thing, if it’s no longer valid.

Much like a nation-state, Taiwan has somewhat complex and somewhat annoying rules governing the ways that people can be foreign in Taiwan. Americans and other nice people can get a non-extendable thirty-day visa upon arrival just for being them; but if you want to stay longer, you have to go to the non-embassy in your nice country first and get an extendable visa, which usually requires someone vouching for you. If you can’t get an extendable visa, you can always just leave the country, come back in from somewhere else, and get another thirty day just-cause-you’re-you stamp. But Taiwan is an island, so leaving the country means getting on a plane, which means spending at least around $300 to $400 plus at least a day in Hong Kong, where there’s nowhere to sit down and you have to pay money just to breathe the air.

If you’re someone like me, but not actually me, you can always get Academia Sinica to vouch for your extendable visa—it’s very easy to get affiliated with them if you can show that you are affiliated with a school in America and are getting an income of some sort. If you are actually me, you will never, not once, get your shit together early enough to have this process completed in time, and the thing will always still be in the works when you go to the non-embassy to try to get your visa just a couple of days before your flight. Then you’ll talk to the lovely lady at the desk and explain your situation and ask if she has any advice on what you should do, and she will be so charmed by the fact that you, an unmistakable whitey, talk Chinese to her that she will explain the situation to her boss and try to make sure you get an extendable visa anyway, even without the voucher, and then she’ll ask you, while you’re there to pick up the visa anyway, to translate some completely untranslatable concept into English for her, and then you’ll look like a fool. But a fool with an extendable visa.

If you stay here long enough to extend your visa a couple of times, and Academia Sinica still has not tired of your tiresome ways, you can get vouched for an extended residence permit, which allows you to come and go and stay freely for usually about a year, plus extensions. It also allows you to legally buy a motor scooter, a clause I took advantage of a couple of years ago. Subsequently I returned to the US, let my residence permit lapse, and came back to Taiwan, this time on a short-term extendable visa. I left my bike with Jennifer and her mom (whose scooter had just broken down) and picked it up again when I came back. The scooter is in my name and the parking tickets come to my address, so it seems like I legally own it; but now that I do not have a residence permit, it appears that I can no longer legally sell it.

Mama H and I followed the scooter fixer’s advice and went to the people in charge of customs issues, in a big office building about ten minutes’ drive away. We explained our situation to the lady at the information desk, who looked completely confused. “You can’t sell your scooter? That can’t be right. But we don’t deal with this issue here, and I don’t know who does. Maybe you should go to the central police station.” The police station issues visa extensions and residence permits. So we hopped back on the scooter and tootled over there, another five or ten minutes, and explained ourselves to two more people who had no idea what we were talking about. They suggested maybe I needed a residence certification, which would certify that I was a resident during the period that my residence permit was valid. I somehow did not feel that this was going to be very helpful, but Mama H insisted that I get one. In the meantime I asked the lady writing it up for me who is actually in charge of motor vehicle titles. She called information and got us the phone number. Mama H called up and talked to someone there for a while, and reported that we should go there, in person, together, and if it didn’t work we could go look for Mr. Lai on the third floor, maybe he could help us. We parted with this agreement and a date for Friday morning.

When I got home I called up the vehicle title place myself. I got someone on the phone and explained the situation to him (using what I think were probably a lot of misplaced and forced-sounding coloquialisms—Mama H speaks Mandarin like it’s Taiwanese and I always end up getting a little of those rhythms and particles myself when I spend time with her. I find it really enjoyable, it’s an unusually free kind of fluency for me, but I think it probably sounds fake on a foreigner). Here’s what you need to do, the administrator said. Where are you now? Are you in Taiwan? Okay, you need to come, you yourself, in person, with your passport, and the title for the scooter and the insurance paper, and the buyer needs to come, with her i.d. card and her chop. In person. Okay, I said, we can do that. And that’ll be okay? It won’t be a problem then? “Well, look, I can’t exactly say it’ll be okay, just like that” said the government administrator on the other end of the line. “Strictly speaking, it is not legal for you to sell your scooter without a residence permit. But here you are, you have a scooter, you’re about to leave. What are you supposed to do, get a residence permit just so you can sell your scooter? That would be totally ridiculous, right? Of course if you’re leaving, you want to sell your scooter. We don’t want to stand in the way of that, that would be completely unreasonable. We want to help you do this handle this paperwork. Just come by with all the documentation, like I said.”

We’ll see what happens tomorrow morning.


[1] What follows is a tale of woe about vehicle titles that can only be matched by the tale of woe about vehicle titles that I went through, and in some sense am still going through, in order to officially let my friend in Chicago to use my car while I am in Taiwan. That story would be much longer than this one, and have considerably more acrobatics (at one point it had him receiving my storage room key in the mail, driving out to the storage place, and climbing over all my belongings to look in my file cabinets for paperwork that did not exist, because the state of Illinois had failed to send me a title at all. Sorry D…). But currently we are talking about unreasonable procedures here, not there.

Tuesday, December 07, 2004

self-presentation to self via others, part 3

When Vivian finished her presentation, people in the audience clapped. She had done a very good job of presenting the story that the community tells itself about itself, and had snuck in a few of her own additions to the normal story as well. John Friedmann, somewhat inscrutible but I think maybe a little impatient with being the enabling witness to a little bout of consciousness-raising, said, “Okay, but what is the community that you are talking about? You keep talking about community, but what is the scope of this community? Who participates in it?” Vivian said, “About 6,000 people in this neighborhood.” The Professor said, “About 15,000 people in this neighborhood.” Then we opened the question up to the audience: “What is our community? What is its scope?” Here were the answers that people called out:

1. “arising through struggle/demand” 爭取來的
2. “in common” 共同的
3. “the people around here are all [part of it]” 這邊的人都是

6,000…15,000 I’m not sure exactly how Vivian and The Professor were getting their numbers, but I suspect it is through rough senses of the population of the relevant li, or boroughs (or neighborhoods, or subdistricts--there is no standar), in the area. The Cultural Association is associated by name but not by administration with the Tangbu (Sugar Refinery) Borough, official population 5,718 in September. The other two boroughs that tend to participate in our activities and to have members in the Cultural Association are the Lüti (Green Levy) Borough, official population 4986, and the Heping (Peace, and the name of a street that bounds it) Borough, official population 7,555. When pressed, by me, for a relatively long time, The Professor concluded that the core, consistently active members of the Cultural Association numbered 20-30 (which accords with my sense of things), the technical members of the Cultural Association numbered 100-200, and the number of people who were not regularly active in the group but could be drawn out to participate in particular events or protests was 300-400.

When it became clear that 1, 2, and 3 above were not what Mr. Friedmann was looking for, people started calling out: “Heping West Road, Huanhe South Road, Mengjia Boulevard, Xiyuan Road,” among other names, giving him the geographic boundaries of what they think of as their own place (although in every other situation in which I’ve asked people, here or elsewhere, about the meaning of the word “community,” they have denied a physical or geographic scope to it).

“Okay,” said Mr. Friedmann, speaking with a very very slight accent that I just noticed then for the first time, “so you have talked about what you don’t want. But what would like to see? Do you have any ideas about what you would like the neighborhood to become? Ask them,” nodding toward the residents in the audience.

The Professor jumped in: “I’d like to supplement a bit what Vivian just said. You see, area is one of Taipei’s oldest areas, and in the context of the development of Taipei city, what happens is that old neighborhoods tend to be rather more run down. The quality of their environment is not very good, and their residents’ educational and cultural level is not very high. The local government does not see these areas as very important and does not distribute resources to them.” The Professor, like Vivian, was not exactly speaking to Mr. Friedmann; but unlike Vivian he was not so explicitly speaking to the audience either. He faced a little bit towards me (making a kind of line-of-sight loop around Mr. Friedmann, who sat in between us) and a little bit outwards on a slight diagonal, and spoke clearly but not with oratorial projection, as perhaps befits a man of his stature. Or at any rate that is pretty much his normal speaking style—loud enough to be heard but not loud enough to look like he cares about, unnervously and unembarrassedly taking his time regardless of what he is talking about, and, in this case, ignoring my eventual signals to stop for a sec so I could translate. (The people who tend to forget the translator have been, in my experience so far, at the high and the low ends of the status hierarchy: high-ranking city government officials and everyday neighborhood residents.)

Supplement補充 buchong is kind of like “So, …” or “Right, and …” It announces that a new speaker is wresting the floor away from someone else, in a polite way, and signals a sometimes specious connection to the previous topic or line of reasoning.

Taipei’s oldest areas The development of Taipei city started from right around this area, which was already settled in the early 18th century. Wanhua, the city administrative district in which The Neighborhood sits, borders the river and served as the major port in the area until it was silted up sometime in the I think 19th century. In case you were looking for pristine bounded communities or something, it’s always nice to keep in mind that the name Wanhua is the Mandarin pronunciation of the Japanese characters assigned by the colonial regime to the Taiwanese pronunciation of the Aboriginal name for the area, which was the word for the kind of boat that people made here (from what I understand a dugout canoe sort of arrangement).

People currently call the area Wanhua (when they are referring to the administrative district, whose boundaries have changed considerably over time); M/Banga (when speaking Taiwanese or when wanting to add a little Taiwanese flava to their Mandarin); or Mengjia (the Mandarin pronunciation of the Taiwanese pronunciation of the Aboriginal name for the area, which does not go through Japanese)[1] for reasons I can’t pinpoint but that I have a feeling are linked to an evocation of the area’s historical status (rather than its current role as the dirty, Taiwanese, chaotic area of Taipei). The area was famous enough in imperial era Taiwan to appear in a saying that lists the three most important places in Taiwan—a saying that, if everyone wasn’t saying it then, they sure are now, as soon as you tell them you are working in Wanhua: “One Fu, Two Lu, Three Mengjia 一府, 二鹿, 三艋舺,” where Fu is Tainan in the south (the first area settled by non-indigenous people, including Chinese from the southern mainland coast and operatives of the Dutch East India Company who soon set up shot there and ran the island for a few years), and Lu is Lugang, a formerly important port city.

Be all this as it may, the actual houses in this neighborhood, and most of its current residents, did not come around until the 1970s and 1980s. This is not exactly the 18th century, but it already counts as pretty old. At that time the area in which I live now was mostly farmland.

Educational and cultural level Although people do sometimes, often in a lowered voice, mention the fact that there are discrepancies in income in Taiwan and that people living in this neighborhood have relatively low incomes, for the most part people tend not to talk about anything that may be construed as class. People are not poor but poorly educated or uncultured; infrastructure and public facilities are neglected not because the residents have no money but because they do not have the proper connections to the people who could make sure that they are attended to. The Professor has the happy coincidence of having a very high cultural and educational level (a phd from an American university and tenure at one of the high-ranking public universities in Taiwan) and lots of money (in general academia pays better, relative to other jobs, than in the US; and also I hear that he has been in charge of organizing several major construction projects for his university, which at the very least means he now has a lot of friends). He also has many connections, especially in the DPP or “green” side of the political spectrum, which may or may not have something to do with his having lots of money (he has made considerable contributions to politicians who have expressed willingness to help out the neighborhood in its various projects).

Local government as opposed to national level government, which actually also does not distribute resources to this area but (1) is less supposed to, being national level and all and (2) is currently under DPP, or “green,” leadership and is therefore closer to The Professor’s heart than the city government, currently under KMT (“blue”) control.

“This situation,” The Professor continued over my signal to stop for a sec so I could translate and Mr. Friedmann’s somewhat annoyed, “Yes, but what I’m asking—,” “This situation, and when Taisugar wanted to sell the land to Xiyuan Hospital for a large-scale, 700 bed retirement home, it made the residents very sad in their hearts. And it was out of this sadness that we came together as a community. We went to visit Professor Hsia to ask him for advice, and that was really a turning point in our movement. He told us, the important thing is the quality of your living environment. You should not be asking for profit-making ventures for the community; you should be improving the quality of your living space. That was really a turning point in our thinking, and it was after that that we demanded a park—because this area does not have the open green space mandated by law.”

Xiyuan Hospital Here we get to more of the story that I am sick of narrating; you probably get the gist from this and from my previous blabbering on the topic.

Professor Hsia The Professor gave a little not in the direction of Mr. Friedmann as he said this. Professor Hsia, of course, was ‘in charge’ of Mr. Friedmann, was his host, and as such it was quite natural for us to go out of our way in praising him to Mr. Friedmann, who did not seem to pick up on the compliment being given him as the honored guest of so distinguished and capable a person. Earlier in the day, before Mr. Friedmann’s arrival, The Professor had turned to me and said, “So who is this guy anyway?” It may be that he didn’t realize that Mr. Friedmann’s presence was more a compliment to Professor Hsia than the other way around.

Quality of your living enviroment Professor Hsia sees the quality-of-space movement in this neighborhood as the emergence of a civil society on Taiwan.[2] Usually when people make demands about spatial management as a neighborhood or community—and usually such people are middle- to upper-middle class—they want an office building, a commercial center, something that will make money. “I told them,” Professor Hsia told me a long time ago, “money is not as important as quality.” Besides, he continued, if they ask for a big office building, people will say they’re just trying to take the profit away from other people and get it for themselves. If they ask for something that benefits them but does not bring in money, people will see that they are honestly concerned with their own living environment. They won’t look greedy. This tactic has worked admirably. Neighborhood residents report various meetings with various government officials who have expressed amazement that they don’t tend to talk about property values but about the quality of the environment; and that they seem to want to keep living in this neighborhood rather than trying to sell off their apartments and move somewhere ‘better.’

Turning point in our thinking The Professor has been a leader here from the very first, although there used to be a couple of people who would regularly oppose him or present their own, different ideas to the group. One of those people has since died (he sounds like he was a wonderful man, and he was married to a wonderful woman, one of the most straightforwardly kind and giving people I have met in the course of my fieldwork). The other one had a big, public fight with him when they were setting up the organizational structure of the Cultural Association (as it was converting itself from ad hoc protest group to legitimate civic organization), stormed out in tears, and has never come back—although some members of the community have kept up relations with her, which is how I met her. (She is now a close friend of mine.) Although people sometimes express dissatisfaction with some of his actions, for the most part whatever The Professor says is what individual members of the Cultural Association say. So one suspects that the turning point he is talking about here was a turning point in his thinking. His status in the community probably has something to do with his status in the world and his money; but it also probably has something to do with the fact that he really is very effective in getting his ideas listened to by the government and private parties who can do something about them, and has been a driving force behind many of the community’s successful projects. (This also probably has something to do with his status in the world and his money.)

“Yes,” said Mr. Friedmann, facing me of all people, “I understand that. But what I want to know is what do they want, what do they want for their neighborhood? You can’t just always be opposing things. You have to have some idea of what you’d like to see.”



[1] Actually I just realized I don’t really understand where Mengjia comes from or when it was used, as presumably nobody spoke Mandarin on Taiwan before 1945. Maybe it’s a later Mandarin pronunciation of the Taiwanese pronunciation?

[2] Personal communication, but also I think in an essay somewhere. To tell you the truth, I find the full circle of the residents asking Professor Hsia what they should demand and taking his advice to the letter, and Professor Hsia then touting them and their demands as a sign of the spontaneous emergence of civil society in post-martial law Taiwan a little bit funny. Professor Hsia is deeply enough involved in politics—initially on the Green side but then, abruptly, on the Blue—that someone recently told me, “We can’t really judge him as a scholar anymore, he’s more of a political figure now.” His students can be found at all levels of the city and national government, and many of them have had famous fallings-out with him. He is, however, awfully charismatic.

friend of my youth

I really ought not to read fiction. I was just sending the name of Alice Munro to a friend who asked for a name or two, and of course since I have dsl I figured I would see if I could find anything of hers online, and since that was the first thing I did this morning I am now stuck in the snowy wastelands of northern Canada and can't quite reconcile that with the landscape in front of me or the fact that it is nine in the morning and I have a lot to do today. I need one of those computer chips that prevents me from reading anything I subsequently can't exit -- v chip? f chip? It's not even my favorite thing of hers; but it's good enough.

self-presentation to self via others, part 2

It’s now the next day from whenever the last day was, but it is no longer morning. Today was taken up entirely with more The Neighborhood related activities—meetings meetings meetings, in which my heart was not. Then just enough time putzing around to have Tai-ke Joe drop a line saying that he was practicing his English by reading my blog (who ever thought I’d be writing a textbook) and that “if you printed out the whole thing I bet it would be longer than most Taiwanese dissertations.” Then dinner, and now sitting down to continue this I find that I have not come up with any more amusing way of telling the fieldnoty part of it; but I must write it down; but I am too lazy to write first and then rewrite for a non-me audience. So bear with me or, alternatively, don’t.

When you last us, I was sitting at a table with John Friedmann, Vivian, and The Professor.

When we’d first sat down, as everyone was milling about and no one was talking to him, I had given Mr. Friedmann a brief outline of that recent history of the neighborhood that I took to be the reason that Professor Hsia had sent him to take a look around: the residents’ protest about the disposition of a parcel of neighborhood land, which has now more or less been turned into a park; their work to get several neighborhood buildings declared heritage sites (making them undestroyable public property); and the current agitation against a plan by the Taiwan Electric Company to move underground and considerably enlarge an electric distribution station it has in the neighborhood and to build a fourteen story office building on top of it.

Vivian, still facing the audience and speaking in a loud, clear voice, now started talking about these issues. “So now we are facing several main issues. We have these newly declared heritage sites, which will give our neighborhood some much-needed public space. But now we have to figure out how to manage these buildings. Usually what the government does with such buildings is to OT, to give it over to someone else to run. But this takes it out of community hands. We’d like to maintain community control over the buildings, but on the other hand we do not have any experience running such a space, so it will be very difficult. This room, the Shenghuo Guan, is actually our first experiment in operating our own community space. We hope to make it a very lively place, a place people love to go to and everyone uses.”

Heritage site There are two levels of historical protection offered to built structures on Taiwan, which I have translated as heritage site and historical structure. Heritage sites can only be preserved; they cannot be altered in any way except for the purposes of preservation. Historical structures have much less protection—I’m not sure exactly what the conditions are, but I think you are just supposed to maintain the façade and can do what you want with the rest. Maybe not even that. The important factors in determining whether a structure is worthy of preservation are (1) its age; (2) its condition; (3) its architectural value; (4) its historical value; (5) its current social value—meaning whether people come out and say they want it preserved.

The Cultural Association lobbied the Cultural Affairs Department of Taipei City very hard and very long to get all three buildings that currently serve as Taiwan Sugar Corporation storage houses declared heritage sites. The people who decide whether something is or is not a heritage or historical site are a group of “scholars and experts” convened by the Cultural Affairs Department from a list of all scholars and experts resident on Taiwan. There was quite a lot of argument at the time about whether all three buildings should be declared heritage sites or whether one or two of them should be declared historical structures or nothing at all.

About fifty neighborhood residents showed up to the open meeting with the scholars and experts group at which private citizens could express their views, and many of them spoke with passion, conviction, and organization about their desire to preserve the buildings. (We’d had a neighborhood meeting the night before so people could practice their speeches and get commentary on rhetorical strategy.) Around twenty showed up for the scholars’ and experts’ tour of the premises. All of the buildings in question here were built in the Japanese era, so they’re too recent to be preserved on age grounds alone. The factors emphasized by people lobbying for preservation were architectural value (Japanese structures are rare enough now and considered valuable in and of themselves, and one of these buildings has a two-peaked, what they call “M-shaped” roof, which is unique in Taisugar buildings and maybe in all Japanese era buildings); historical value (this was the only sugar refinery in northern Taiwan); and, most importantly, current social value, as expressed by the sheer number of people who bothered to come to the discussions. The lone Taisugar representative at the open meeting, who opposed any preservation requirements for the company’s buildings, more or less floundered and drowned in the sea of polite but insistent residents.

The city government people I talked to about this case seemed generally to feel that the scholars and experts had acted less on their professional judgment than on the emotions that the residents’ enthusiasm stirred up in them, and expressed admiration for the residents' stirring-up abilities.

OT operate-transfer. I don’t know if this is a term in English. It’s culled from BOT, build-operate-transfer, a very popular way of sharing the burden of building large structures among different states, or among state and non-state organizations. (E.g. Taipi 101 was built by a private company with a lot of incentives from the city government—tax breaks, zoning breaks, some other kind of breaks—and maybe some subsidies. It will be run by that company for the next seventy years, after which it will be turned over to the Taipei City Government.) Again, OT is pronounced first tone-first tone.

Takes it out of community hands A very successful case of heritage site reuse, as it’s called, is Taibei zhi Jia, Taipei’s Home, the former residence of the US ambassador. It’s a beautiful building and it’s been beautifully remodeled as an all-purpose culture center, with a small movie theater that plays out of the way movies, a book store, and a coffee shop. It’s considered a very successful case, but Vivian and the Cultural Association are nervous about reproducing a similar result in their neighborhood. Completely giving over the management of the buildings would dilute the whole atmosphere of active community participation that they are interested in fostering. But perhaps more to the point, the residents of The Neighborhood could not afford to get coffee at a coffee shop like that very often. So they’re afraid that opening up the heritage site management for bidding, as the city government usually does, would effectively close off the sites to the people who worked so hard to get them preserved.

“We’ve started a class in community building and environmental planning, and we’re talking about organizing other classes, in Japanese, English, calligraphy, and so on. We hope that by charging a small tuition fee for these classes, we can make everyone happy to participate; support the basic needs of this room, like water, electricity, and DSL; and make sure everyone in the community has a chance to participate, like our community Mama’s, our local elders, and so on.”

Started a class The first two sessions of this class consisted of a professor Vivian had invited explaining the particular characteristics of Taiwanese culture by listing a lot of Taiwanese-language sayings. He also mentioned something that yet further complicated the tension around the terms used to designate…well, I don’t know what terms to designate them with, so it’s kind of difficult to talk about. Basically, okay, you know that there is this tension about whether “Taiwanese” people, i.e. the people who live on the island of Taiwan and have a Republic of China passport, are “Chinese.” (So people often say, “We Chinese people …” but every once in a while when I say “Chinese people” someone corrects me and says, “I am not a Chinese person, I am a Taiwanese person.”)

Similarly, there’s a little bit of an argument about what the various languages relevant to the Taiwanese situation should be called. Nobody ever says “Chinese中文 zhongwen” in Chinese; usually to mean Mandarin people in Taiwan say “the national language 國語 guoyu.”[1] But some people object to this designation on the grounds that the KMT, which instituted it, was interested in its own nation, ruled by itself, and that it’s nothing to do with us. Some people call Mandarin “Beijing language 北京話 Beijing hua,” and some people, including the person who first yelled at me for using ‘national language’ after I’d finally switched over from the mainland term, say “Hua language 華語 Huayu,” named after what I interpret as being the most ethno-racial, least nation-statish, way of referring to Chinese people.

To mean Taiwanese people say either “Taiwanese language 台語 taiyu” or “Southern Min language 閩南語 Minnan yu,” for the area and dialect group in southern Fujian from which the dialect spoken on Taiwan derives (and to which it is almost identical, or considerably different, depending on the political views of who you ask).

So, okay. So this professor had a whole long spiel on how we should not call ourselves Minnan people (as people often do refer to the group of people who are otherwise referred to as this-province-people 本省人 bensheng ren), because the Min of Minnan is a very insulting term. Just look at the character: it’s a door (), and in the doorway is what? A snake ()! So we Taiwanese are like snakes in your doorway? No thanks, I do not accept this name. We should call ourselves Hoklo; that is a better name. After class I asked him where the name Hoklo came from. It was the standard way of referring to my God what am I supposed to call them now bensheng ren, Minnan people minus the snake, in anthropology writing up until recently, but I don’t know where it comes from and I have never noticed anyone using it before in Taiwan. “本來就有 It was always there,” he said, not very helpfully. Thank goodness he’s the only person I’ve ever heard voicing this complaint; the situation is complicated enough as it is.

Japanese, English, calligraphy are what people want to learn.

Water, electricity, and DSL The Shenghuo Guan has two computers that someone donated, sitting on two very old desks from some Taiwan Sugar Corporation office that a member of the community who used to work them got someone to give him.

Community Mama’s, our local elders Mama’s, as you know, are usually housewives with grown children, and often grandmothers. Young people are generally not involved in any of the activist activities in this neighborhood: they are busy studying for tests, working, or having children, and are not expected to show up to things.



[1] People on the mainland usually say “the common language 普通話 putong hua” but I’ve heard “national language” as well, perhaps especially from people who come from the far south.